Island Spirit 37 catamaran
Welcome aboard Sanctuary! We certainly hope your vacation exceeds your expectations. In order to enhance your experience we have decided to provide you with some specific items about the boat.
This notebook certainly does not completely encompass all the features of the yacht, but does share our tips about most of the important features. Please feel free to email me any notes or ideas you may have after chartering her so we can revise it as needed. We would also like your assistance. If there is anything that needs attention, please let us or the Conch Charters staff members know.
It is not our intent to insult your intelligence, but to let you in on some of the "Quirks" of our boat to let you enjoy your vacation more. We have seen many people have great difficulty anchoring, so we have included a step-by-step guide for that process. As chartering experience varies, we have prepared this for the novice charterer, or the experienced charterer who is new to Catamaran sailing.
With the exception of the Fish Guide and Multihull Guide, feel free to take or exchange any of the books in the library.
We would also ask that you treat this boat as if she was your own. If you damage or break something, please be honest, this is a personally owned boat and we cannot afford to fix damage you create. We do our best to keep everything in tiptop shape, but just like your personal boat or car, things just sometimes wear out. Please be patient when that happens.
Please feel free to contact us with any questions or comments. Please contact us at:
Tom Garvey 708-434-1010 or tgarvey@bvi-sanctuary.com
(Special thanks to Jennifer & Mike Kneafsey for this guide.)
Helm Station
The helm seat adjusts up, down, and around. The ring under the seat allows the seat to be moved up or it allows it to rotate. If you want the seat to rotate, it must be in the lowest position. There is also a ring on the footrest so it may move up and down. If it appears it is going to rain, put a trash bag over the seat to avoid having a soggy cushion. It is a good idea to bag the helm seat each night, as brief overnight showers are frequent.
Sheets/Lines
The boat is set up with a dual mainsheet system. In practice, we only use the starboard mainsheet, because it is close to the helm, but you can use either one.
The jib sheets and main share the same winches. Before tacking make sure the non-working sheet is fairly taut and is hitting the mast above the halyard winch; otherwise, there is a good chance it will get caught on that winch as you start to crank it ion during the tack. As you tack keep a close eye on the sheet to make sure it is not fouled on the winch.
When tacking, on the working sheet have three wraps on the winch and have the line secured in the tailer. Release the line clutch, then when ready release the line off the winch. If you release the line off the winch before releasing the line clutch, there may be too much tension to release the line clutch easily, and you risk receiving a nasty rope burn when it is released.
Make sure you watch the lines on the furler and the sheets. They are long and if not stowed properly, you run the risk of them fouling a prop.
Close
the side ports when sailing. It is possible to hook a sheet, thus twisting a
hatch. The result is $250 mistake. Also watch the overhead hatches in the main
saloon when sailing downwind. If you accidentally jibe you could snag a hatch,
thus having a $350 bad day. Use the traveler to ease the main rather than main
sheet.
Should you foul a sheet while tacking: release both line clutches and then clear the foul.
Mast
When
looking at the Mast from the port side, the line clutches are: Yellow – Main
Halyard; Blue - Head sail (don’t touch); Red – Spinnaker Halyard (don’t touch).
Sometimes to release the line clutch you have to take a turn on the winch to
remove some of the tension.
The main can be pulled up by hand or on the
windlass. As the main goes up, make sure the battens do not get caught in the
lazy jacks. The helmsman needs to watch this. If the sail becomes difficult to
pull up you are probably caught, look at the lazy jacks or the reef lines. You
will have to drop the sail down to clear the sail. Should you use the windlass,
make sure the breaker on the panel is flipped on and the engine is running in
neutral at 1,500 rpm.
The mainsail is large (470 square feet) and heavy, and it is a workout to raise
it. To make it easier, we often raise it while still on the mooring ball or
anchor. If you do that you can allow the natural movement of the bow through
the wind to clear the battens from the lazy jacks on either side as you raise
the sail.
A NOTE OF CAUTION: if you raise the mainsail while in an anchorage, be sure to have both engines running and make sure you are confident that you can control the boat once the sail is up. Remember, as soon as you release the mooring ball or weigh the anchor, you will be sailing, so make sure you’ve got plenty of room to clear nearby boats.
Before raising the mainsail for the first time, make sure the reefing lines are completely slack, and watch them as you raise the sail to make sure they aren’t holding the sail down.
Before raising the main, make sure that there are no twists on the halyard. In other words, look up the mast and make sure the two sections of the halyard are not turned around each other. If you raise the sail with the two sections turned around each other, it will be harder to raise, and it might jam when you go to lower it.
Should you need to reef (22kts of breeze) there are shackles on the mast to hook on the reef tack. Once the tack is down, use the winch on the first reef line, which is the yellow line. The Green and Black are the second and third reef lines. If you need to go to the second reef (30kts) then you should head to an anchorage.
The red line on the boom is the outhaul car, which you probably will not need to adjust. On the starboard side of the mast are two blue lines for the lazy jacks. Do not adjust these. Also on port side down low is the yellow line, which is the topping lift – please don’t adjust this line.
The headsail furler can be tight due to the number and sharpness of the angles in the furling line. If the furler hangs, just pop the line at the furler. I usually furl the headsail from the starboard trampoline, which eliminates all 90-degree turns and makes the job go a lot quicker.
To lower the mainsail, point the boat right into the wind, put three wraps of the halyard around the winch, lay out all of the halyard so that it is not obstructed, open the line clutch on the mast (by pushing it all the way up), and release the halyard from the winch. The sail should easily and quickly fall all the way down. You may need to help it along for the last several feet and tuck it into the sail pack. CAUTION: Do not get yourself caught in the halyard, as it will be paying out quite fast.
Traveler
When sailing a catamaran, the traveler is very important. If you use the mainsail when downwind, move the traveler downwind. Make sure not to have the mainsail chaffing on the rigging. Move the traveler to prevent this damage.
The traveler moves up and down by shifting the pin on the bottom to the right or left. Sometimes to get the pin out of position you need to put a little tension on the line. After you have adjusted the traveler move the pin back to the middle to lock it in place.
CAUTION: If you want to move the Traveler to downwind while the sail is full, as soon as you release the pin, you will be dealing with the full force of the wind. Be careful, as the traveler will free spin, and with a winch handle can be dangerous until the pin is properly locked in place.
Move Traveler to one side or the other BEFORE using the walkway. Otherwise you risk the boom knocking you through the bimini.
Galley
We have one of the best-equipped galleys in any bareboat fleet. We would appreciate your help in keeping it in good condition.
Please do not use any metal on the non-stick pans, we have purchased plastic spoons, etc., to use with these pans. Please store the pans properly and in their proper homes. The baking items are stored in the oven.
Due to the water environment we are having a hard time keeping the oven igniters working. The port burner igniter does not work, so you are going to have to use a match.
To light the burner or the oven turn, on the Gas Control on the electrical panel, insert a match into the lower back part of the oven. Push and turn the knob, holding the button in for 25 seconds.
When doing dishes, if you do not dry them right away, let them dry in the dish drainer basin, with the lid open.
Storage/Refrigeration
To maximize refrigeration, we suggest that you keep all the food items in the vertical refrigerator/freezer located just inside the companionway. Use the forward well for pop and beer. That way, you are not losing refrigerated air on your perishables every time someone wants a drink. The more you have in the refrigerators, the easier it is for them to keep things cool, but there must be some airflow.
Generally, it takes about 24 hours for the beer cooler to get cold, so initially fill it with ice. We recommend putting two blocks of ice in the bottom of the beer cooler at the start of the week.
Running both refrigerators is a major drain on the batteries. You should be able to leave both refrigerators on all day, but turn the beer cooler at dusk. And, monitor the batteries closely. Don’t let the batteries fall below -160 amp hours.
The cabinet to the left of the beer cooler will get warm from the compressor located in the forward port cabin. There is plenty of storage in the main saloon. We suggest storing cases of beverages on the cabinet sole under the table until they are needed. Additional storage is behind the settees. On the left side are four storage areas. One is for the house batteries, another is the anchor windlass breaker, and the remaining two are available for use.
There is no storage under the curved
section. On the starboard side of the settee is additional storage. The forward
one has manuals for the boat. The aft one has flares and other emergency gear. 
Water Systems
There are two water tanks in each hull, one under the forward bunk and the other one under the gangway outside the head. The boat’s total water capacity is 160 gallons. Under the aft half of each forward bunk there is a valve that either isolates or connects the forward & aft tanks. In the gangway outside of each head there is a valve that controls whether the water system draws water from that hull’s tanks, which looks like this:
This is the starboard hull’s valve, in the closed position.
We recommend that you leave both hulls’ tank
valves in the open position, so that the water system is drawing off both sides
evenly. When re-filling the water, which you should plan to do about every
three or four days unless you are very conservative with your consumption, the
best practice is as follows:
1)
Open the valve between each set
of forward & aft tanks (to do this, you will have to fold forward the aft half
of each forward bunk’s cushion, remove the board under the cushion, and then
remove the additional board below that);
2)
Remove the pull-up hatch in the
gangway soles over the tank valves, which will be make each aft tank’s
inspection hatch visible;
3)
As you fill the tanks in a hull,
you will be filling them through the forward tank and the water will flow down
into the aft tank. Once the aft tank is full, you will see a small stream of
water flowing out from around the inspection hatch cover. That is your signal
to close the valve between the forward & aft tanks. Then, keep filling the
forward tank until the water overflows through the vent on the inboard side of
the hull below the fill.
The water pump draws from the aft tanks. If it looks like you’re running out of water, simply open the valves between the forward & aft tanks, which will drain the forward tanks into the aft tanks. The aft tanks are larger than the forward tanks by about 1.5:1, so at that point you will have used about 60% of your water.
You do not want to drain a tank completely, as they can be difficult to prime. Should a tank become difficult to prime, have both tanks open and several faucets open. After a minute or so, shut off the tank that is already primed. This should prime the other side.
In the photo above, you can also see the shower pan. There is a drain pump with a float switch under the pan. It must be turned on at the main panel. If the shower is not draining, the filter might be clogged. If a clog occurs, lift up the floorboard, and then remove the clog, which usually is caused by hair. Unfortunately, due to the float switch, the pan does not completely dry and water can stagnate here.
There are two water fill openings for Sanctuary. They are both located on the foredeck of each hull. Please check the tank labeling carefully before adding anything, as two diesel fill openings are also located on deck. The opening found low on the starboard side is for waste removal, regardless of how it may be marked. Please do not open it.
Engines
Please do not exceed 2,500 rpm on the engines. If you accelerate too quickly the engines will blow out black smoke. This is the result of unburned fuel in the exhaust. To avoid this, bring the boat up to speed slowly. At 2,500 rpm the boat will do 6 knots in flat water. Many times the speedo is not accurate, due to growth. You can free it the next time you are in an anchorage by going over the side and spinning the wheel with your hand; it is forward on the starboard hull.
Please check oil regularly. The dipsticks are yellow and located on the left sides of the engines.
Should either engine not start right away, give them some fuel with the transmission disengaged. There are also local start switches for each engine in the aft cabins. If you have to use them, you will need to turn on the start keys at the helm after you’ve started the engines.
The engines are Yanmar 18 hp. Remember, catamarans are designed for speed under sail and will not motor well into a headwind – so sail!
Remember that from the helm station, the cable running to the port engine is longer than the starboard one, so the port throttle will not be as easy to move as the starboard one.
Keep the transmission in forward when sailing. This saves wear on the cutlass bearing. Having the transmission in forward rather than reverse or neutral creates less torque on the gears.
In
the picture are the yellow dipstick, oil fill and water fill. Emergency fuel
shutoffs are located under the fake floor in the anchor wells.
The port engine will be slower to start and shut off. This is due to the length of the cable runs to the engines.
Electrical Systems
Sanctuary is equipped with three 160 amp-hour batteries, for a total capacity of 480 amp hours. The electrical system is monitored and controlled by the Heart Link Interface 2000, which looks like this:
1.
INVERT - Inverter may be turned On or Off independently from charger. When the
invert button is pressed the inverter 
is
enabled. Note: There is no inverter on Sanctuary.
2. CHARGE - The battery charger may be turned On or Off independently. When the charge button is pressed the charger is enabled. When AC power is present, the charger will charge, unless it is shut Off.
3. SET UP - Press the SET UP button to enter the Set Up Mode and Advanced Features Mode. The set up functions are in small text below each of the button's primary functions. This button is also used to access certain advanced functions. Note: You should not have to use this function.
4. DC VOLTS - Displays specific battery voltage for the selected battery bank.
5. DC AMPS - Shows the present flow of current in or out of the selected battery bank. Displays the Amps drawn from the battery for various loads or the charge rate from the charging source.
6. EQUALIZE - Equalizing your batteries allow you to dissolve built up sulfate on the plates of your batteries to help restore battery capacity and extend battery life.
7. AMP HOURS - Amp Hours consumed represents the amount of energy removed from the battery. During battery charging, the LINK 2000 compensates for charging efficiency of the battery as it counts back towards 0. Range +/- 0 - 1,999
8. TIME REMAINING - Time is an estimate of how long the battery can be operated at present load until the LINK 2000 indicates that the battery is completely discharged. It is based on a selectable, time-average rate of discharge. Range +/- 0-255
9. #2 BATTERY - Indicates battery bank #2 is being monitored. Note: Sanctuary has a single bank of house batteries, so the #2 battery selection monitors the charge coming from the solar panels.
10. #1 BATTERY - Indicates battery bank #1 is being monitored.
Sanctuary is also equipped with two 110-watt solar panels, which are mounted completely out of the way across the aft section of the bimini. In a perfect world, 110 watts X 2 at 12 volts would equal 18.3 amps (220 watts/12 volts = 18.3). However, due to power lost through the wiring, the charge controller, clouds, the angle of the sun, etc., the maximum charging output is 12.6 amps, assuming the batteries were completely flat (which they should never be).
What I’ve seen is generally between six and eight amps for about six to seven hours a day, and less than that in the early morning and late afternoon. Essentially, the solar will give you enough amps to run one of the two refrigerators during the day, which is a big help
If you find that the batteries are running down
towards the end of the day ( a negative number -140 amps or more when you press
the “A Hrs” button), and you don’t want to be bothered by the sound of the
engines running, you can run one engine while you’re ashore for dinner to charge
up, if you’re not going to be gone for more than two hours. If you do this,
alternate which engine you run each evening.
An electrical terms primer:
Volts = The strength of the current of the battery charge.
Amps = The amount of power in the batteries, or the amount of power being consumed. A negative number indicates how many amp-hours you are currently drawing. If you are charging the batteries, this will show a positive number indicating the number of amp hours going into the batteries. Don’t go below -160 hours. If you drop to near that level, use the engines to begin charging the batteries!!!
Both engines are equipped with 55 Amp Alternators. The batteries should stay full just with normal motoring around, and an hour or so each evening. Watch the Link and run the engines as little as possible. This saves a huge amount of wear.
Fueling
The diesel tanks are in the anchor wells. There is also storage in these wells for dock lines and fenders. There should be no reason to open the inspection ports.
You will have plenty of fuel for a week’s charter (80 gallons), so just plan to re-fuel at the Conch Charters dock at the end of your charter. The fuel tanks hold 40 gallons each. They are plumbed to drain together, so even if you use one engine more than the other, the tanks will drain evenly. Generally most charterers will use about 25-35 gallons each week.
If you do feel that you need to fuel, fill the starboard tank first. It has a transparent inspection hatch cover, so open up the starboard anchor locker and keep an eye on the fuel level (you can also use this to see if you even need to re-fuel). Once you’ve filled that tank, check to see how many gallons it took and then put a gallon or so less than that in the port tank, just to be safe to avoid an overflow spill. If you overfill, the fuel will spurt out onto the deck on the inboard side of each anchor locker. Should you spill fuel, immediately squirt dish soap on the deck area where the spill occurred and douse it with sea water with the bucket.
Mooring & Anchoring
Anchoring and mooring are a little different on a catamaran than a monohull. It is absolutely necessary to use a bridle from the front of each hull of the boat to the anchor/mooring line, to center the connection and minimize sailing on the mooring or anchor. This will also keep the mooring line or anchor chain from rubbing against a hull.
Sanctuary is equipped with two bridles: one for mooring and one for anchoring. Both are secured to the cleats on either side of the bow crossbeam. The mooring bridle has the larger of the snap shackles, which looks like this:
This shackle is 6” long and works very well with the variety of mooring pennant ends in use in the BVI.
When you are mooring in spots where the mooring balls are rather close together (such as at some of the National Parks mooring fields), or you are in a mooring field where you are likely to be spun around or back-winded (Cane Garden Bay and Cooper Island), you can shorten the bridle by putting an equal number of wraps around the two cleats.
The second bridle has a smaller snap shackle which fits through a chain link, and should be led back and clipped on to the ring just to port of the anchor. If that bridle is not already in that position, work the shackle back to the hatch to port of the anchor by passing it from hand to hand under the trampoline rigging along the center walkway between the tramps, and clip it on the ring there.
To use the windlass, the breaker must be on at the main panel and the engine must be running. Should you trip the breaker, you can re-set it under the forward settee in the main salon.
The anchor is set up with 200’ of chain. Remember, you should have a 5:1 scope on anchoring. For example, if you are anchoring in 10 feet of water, you should use approximately 50 feet of chain. If you use less than 5:1 scope, you risk dragging your anchor, and potentially running aground. If it is very windy, use a 7:1 scope, if you have enough swinging room.
When preparing to anchor, do not motor around with the anchor dragging in the water – strangely a lot of people do this. Lower the anchor via the windlass ONLY when the boat has stopped moving over the anchorage site. Slowly reverse the boat as you let out the chain, until you get about two-thirds of the desired scope out. Then set the anchor by stopping the windlass and backing down hard (1,500 RPM or so).
Remember when you are choosing the spot to anchor that the boat will end up 50’ to 125’ back from where you drop it, depending on your depth and scope, so be sure to leave enough room from other boats and mooring balls.
Once the anchor is set, depending on your depth, let out a bit more scope, then clip the shackle through a chain link and let out enough additional chain so that it is slack and all of the force of the anchor is on the bridle. Once I’ve set the anchor, I like to put on my mask & flippers and dive on it to make sure it’s well set. For about five minutes effort, I get a lot of peace of mind.
Also, be sure to mark your position compared to a landmark on land or a boat that is on a mooring ball, so that you will notice if you’re dragging.
When raising the anchor, don't use the windlass to pull the boat forward. Motor up over the anchor using hand signals. If the chain jams when the windlass is pulling it up, just reverse the windlass for a short distance. As you pull in the chain, keep the starboard anchor well open and occasionally knock down the pile of chain in the well so it doesn’t pile up and jam. Once the bridle shackle reaches the hatch, remove it from the chain and clip it to the ring.
Remember you cannot anchor at Cooper Island due to the sea grass.
Should you jam the anchor in the roller, tie the anchor up, and pop the chain on the anchor from the bow side. This should clear it. Retie the anchor when it is up. You lose a lot of style points if you accidentally drop your anchor.
Boat Hook
The boat hook is collapsible and usually is in the rain gutter along the starboard side of the coach house roof. Remember when grabbing a mooring you want to be stopped with the ball just forward of the bow. If the boat starts drifting back away from the ball before you get it secured, do not try to use the boat hook to hold on to it: neither you nor the boat hook are strong enough. Just drop it (the mooring ball pennant, not the boat hook) and have the helmsman make another approach.
AT THE CAVES THE BALLS ARE TOO CLOSE TOGETHER. BOATS MAY HIT EACH OTHER, SO SHORTEN THE BRIDLE WITH WRAPS AROUND THE CLEATS AND WATCH CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU JUMP IN THE WATER.
Docking
We have four fenders and numerous dock lines located in the anchor wells. When docking please use all four fenders and notice the height they need to be set.
You will need, bow, stern and a spring line.
Make sure all the lines are run under the lifelines. Move the dinghy to the
opposite side of the boat and tie it close to the boat. Have these items
prepared prior to landing; it’s amazing how many people aren’t prepared as they
approach a dock. Make sure you give your crew clear directions.
When I dock, I like to approach the dock at about a 30 degree angle. Once a
crew member has tossed the bow line to the dock hand (assuming there is one) and
he’s cleated it off, I then put in reverse the engine that is opposite the side
we’re docking on and let the boat move back and towards the dock. This can be
done with the wheel locked in the center position. I then get the stern line
secured.
REMEMBER, WHEN DOCKING, SPEED IS YOUR ENEMY!
A Conch Charters staff member will usually dock the boat at their base if you call ahead.
The Mutihull book in the Nav station gives good info on motoring and docking.
Miscellaneous Notes
Ø
Please keep the window over the
helm station covered with the blue fabric zipped in place when not sailing. This
will prevent discoloration of the clear plastic window due to UV exposure.
Ø When using the CD player, use the "Sel" (select) button on the front left. Push this to Fad(e) Down, which will turn on/off the outside speakers separately from the inside ones.
Ø Should you get a berth wet, please take the cushions out to dry in the sun.
Ø Close all the hatches and ports when you leave the boat. The odds are that it will rain. Latch forward hatches and ports with both latches while sailing.
Ø VHF – There is no Marine Weather. Use AM 780 at 30 minutes past the hour.
Ø When sailing downwind you probably will not need the main, so it is best to drop it. Should you use the main, do not let it chaff against the rigging. Make sure you rig a preventer to the BOW cleats to prevent accidental jibing.
Ø When you tow the dingy raise the outboard as this will save some drag.
Ø Dry the shower door after showering, otherwise it will drip and soak the floor in the hull.
Ø To minimize water mess in the galley and sinks, have the water barely turned on when you use the sprayer. Flip up for constant spray, press down for burst. We hate the round sinks also.
Ø Hot and Cold are reversed in the starboard head.
Ø Draft for the boat is 3'6".
Ø Shut off all fans & lights during the day to save battery power.
Ø Use the fluorescent light in the salon as much as possible, rather than the two banks of halogens lights. The halogens look great, but they are power hogs.
Ø Contrary to common practice, it is not necessary to use the Anchor light at night, as long as you are in a chartered anchorage. It would take a great deal of alcohol for someone not to see a white 37’ catamaran at night in an anchorage. If you want a light on for when you return to the boat, there’s a light on the aft bimini rail that is controlled with one of the three rocker switches just inside the door to the salon.
Personal Favorites
This is not an all-inclusive list, but a guide to our frequent stops:
Neptune’s
Treasure – Anegada
Anegada Reef Hotel - Anegada
Rhymer’s - Cane Garden Bay – breakfast, lunch, dinner
Quitos's - Cane Garden Bay - dinner and Quito Rymer, musician/songwriter
Myett's - Cane Garden Bay - lunch or dinner in a garden-like setting
Donovan’s Reef – Scrub Island
Harbor View – Fat Hog’s Bay – lunch or dinner
Saba Rock - North Sound, Virgin Gorda - dinner (great fish tacos)
Soper’s Hole, in the t-shirt shop to the left of Pusser’s
Great Harbor, JVD
The Dogs
Monkey Point
Cistern Rock, Cooper Island
The Baths - Virgin Gorda
Caves – buy a dive light
The Indians
Flash of Beauty or Loblolly Bay - Anegada
Sandy Cay
White Bay, JVD
Cow Wreck Beach, Anegada
Loblolly Bay, Anegada
George Dog, the site of Chris Long’s wedding:
Bushwacker – Donovan’s Reef
Pirate Punch – Pirate's, Norman Island
Painkiller – Soggy Dollar Bar, White Bay, JVD
Anything Randy Makes at Neptune’s Treasure
Willie T or Pirates – Norman Island
Saba Rock – North Sound
Quito’s – Cane Garden Bay
To the left of Pirate's is a trail up the mountain – great photos
Little Harbor, Peter Island – up to the abandoned house
Great Harbor to White Bay, JVD
Go to the highest point on JVD, have a cab driver take you most of the way.
Off-the-beaten-path anchorages
Key Cay, south west shore of Peter Island
White Bay, south east shore of Peter Island
Other Sources of BVI Information
Traveltalkonline.com An informative forum
Scubamom.com Experienced BVI Traveler
Limin-times.com Music and Cruise ship Schedule
Caribwx.com Latest Weather
Scubabvi.com UBS Dive Center. The best Dive people
Jere's Photo Page. I don't know Jere Lull, but she has great info